On this level, costumes and accessories of the Jews of Greece are exhibited. During the Ottoman period, the costumes of the Jews of Greece reflect the rich interplay of cultures and traditions that characterised the Eastern Mediterranean basin. Ottoman costume was a complex mixture of Μedieval, Islamic and Byzantine dress that was made even richer through the influence of Mongol and Persian styles and affectations. By the middle of the 16th century, all these elements emerged as a distinct style of dress. It adapted to the needs and requirements of specific millets, ethno-religious communities, indicating the individual’s social position. The law dictated that it was forbidden for European dress to be worn by subjects of the Sultan. Romaniote and Sephardic Jews assumed a costume that for the most part, is a direct adaptation of contemporary Ottoman dress with a few distinguishing features in the way of colour, or its absence, minor peculiarities of cut and a varying headdress. From the 16th to the 19th century, the costume of Jewish men, which had to be suitable for public social intercourse, was conservative, undistinguished and modest. Women spent most of their lives indoors, running homes, maintaining families and, if wealthy, acquiring dresses and jewelry. Descriptions of this period speak of the richness and exotic character of their costumes.
Click here to see the Digital Presentation
Jewish bridal attire of Ioannina, 19th century basically composed of a gold brocade Anteri, Robe, silk moiré Shalvari, Pantaloons, and a gold embraided silk Fez, cap.
Beneath the festive costume, women wore a silk or linen shift, like the cream linen Pukamis from Ioannina dating to the 19th century, which shows the traditional form of a woman’s undershirt, cut as a long and wide-sleeved tunic. Its vertical front opening bears needle lace made with silk thread, silver and silver-gilt wire in a diamond pattern, flanked by embroidered flowering branches and birds rendered in the Epirote style.
Child’s silk caftan, displayed with a range of charms and amulets for the protection of the child against harm and for good luck, 19th century – early 20th century.
Sephardic female costume of Salonica, 19th -early 20th century.
Parcel-glit silver filigree Fiongos buckle with double-headed eagle, Epirus, 19th century.
The original drawing of the colored lithograph depicts a Jewish merchant sitting on a divan smoking a water pipe, probably with the Bosporus in the background. He is wearing a red Tarbush or conical hat with a turban, which became the official headwear of Ottoman subjects after 1829, as well as a striped caftan with a sash wrapped several times around the waist and a fur lined overcoat, which were basic elements of the male attire of all social groups. The turban seems to show no Jewish features, as the observance of such social distinctions decreased in the late 19th century.
The exhibit of jewellery dating to the 19th and early 20th century in the upper centre of the display case allows us a glimpse into the former life of the mainly Sephardic communities of Serres, Drama, Kavala and Komotini, all destroyed during the Holocaust. Following Jewish custom, certain pieces of jewellery were presented to the prospective bride during the period between the betrothal and the proper wedding: Pocket watches, twisted bangles, made of silver or gold, amulet pendants, earrings and rings. Bracelets, composed of several compressed multiple link chains fastened to decorated plaques fitted with a clasp, represent a traditional piece both among various Jewish and Christian communities in the Balkans and Turkey, and differed in shape and design according to region and religion.
Back
